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Few wine experiences linger in memory as vividly as a day spent at Elvi Wines and Clos Mesorah in Montsant and Priorat Spain. My wife Sara and I had the privilege of an extraordinary visit — a masterclass in hospitality and winemaking — hosted by Moises and Anna Cohen. The rain, relentless throughout the day, provided a dramatic backdrop to what turned out to be one of the most enriching vineyard experiences I’ve ever encountered.
Nestled in the Montsant hills, Clos Mesorah is a gem of a winery. Moises Cohen, a scientist from Casablanca, Morocco. At the age of 17, he moved to Israel to study agricultural engineering at the Technion in Haifa and later ended up in Catalonia, Spain, working in agriculture and water management. “This new vineyard is the labratory I always wanted, it really brings together both of my passions,” Cohen mused.
What struck me most about our nearly seven-hour visit was the passion and warmth of the Cohen family. Moises, whose expertise lies in viticulture and biodynamics, is as captivating as the vineyards he tends. But the true revelation of the day was Anna Cohen, originally from Toulouse, France, an artist and qualified sommelier. Soft-spoken yet fiercely knowledgeable, Anna’s winemaking is the soul of Elvi. Her mastery shines through in every glass, her meticulous approach translating into wines that are as complex as they are elegant. While she doesn’t speak English, her passion and artistry transcend language barriers.
Moises & Anna’s curated tasting lineup was nothing short of extraordinary, offering a glimpse into the evolution and potential of Elvi Wines. Here are the highlights:
2018 Clos Mesorah Sublim
This wine is a bold evolution for the brand. The heavy oak on the nose lends itself to layers of ripe black and red fruit, sweet vanilla, and warming spices. The oak is very apparent, both in the nose and taste. The palate is rich and velvety, with acidity tempering the opulence, making it a wine that has a long way to go. As it opened up over several hours, the integration of flavors became a revelation. Sublim is aptly named — a wine that promises greatness with time. I’m excited to see where it goes.
2021 Clos Mesorah
This latest vintage of the flagship Clos Mesorah is a tour de force. The blend of Grenache, Carignan, and Syrah offers an exquisite balance of ripe fruit, earthiness, and a touch of umami. Clos Menorah has unique nose, with overripe blackberry forward. Assertive tannins and bright acidity make this wine both approachable and age-worthy. Still young, can’t wait to taste it as it ages in the bottle.
2014 Clos Mesorah (Vertical Tasting)
The vertical tasting of the 2014 and 2022 vintages highlighted the evolution of Clos Mesorah. The 2014 has softened with time, revealing a mosaic of dried fruit, smoke, and earth. It’s a wine that whispers its story rather than shouts it, showcasing the rewards of patience.
2022 Siblings by Mesorah
This wine is extremely approachable, even now. Designed and created by Cohen siblings David and Leah, this mevushal wine blends accessibility with sophistication. I would call it a young Clos Menorah, still boasting a lot of that same dark black fruit and a tinge of umami. Crafted from Grenache and Carignan, it offers bright fruit flavors and a fresh finish, making it a versatile choice for both casual dining and celebrations, think of it as a sophisticated simcha wine.
As the rain poured outside, the warmth of the Cohens’ hospitality enveloped us. The tasting extended late into the evening, followed by a cozy dinner filled with laughter and conversation.
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Feb 5 202555 min