• That's Not Real Climbing

  • Auteur(s): Jinni Xia
  • Podcast

That's Not Real Climbing

Auteur(s): Jinni Xia
  • Résumé

  • A glimpse into everything behind world of competition climbing.

    Hear from setters, organizers, athletes, and everyone in between to learn about this fast-growing sport!

    For further discussion, check out the comp climbing Discord at https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp.

    Jinni Xia 2023
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Épisodes
  • Ep 35: Anna Apel - PRESSURE and expectations as a young climber
    Feb 17 2025

    Anna is a boulder & lead climber from team Germany and one of the younger athletes I’ve interviewed so far as she still competed in youth world champs last year. In this episode, we’ll talk about the differences between the youth and senior circuit, the pressure of expectations after FLASHING all qualis boulders in Innsbruck, and we get some insight into team Germany.

    Guest links:

    Anna’s Instagram

    Reference links:

    Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

    Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

    Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

    Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

    Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

    Timestamps of discussion topics

    0:00 - Intro

    1:24 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

    3:50 - Starting climbing at 3!

    8:18 - Competing in youth and Senior Circuit at the same time

    12:27 - Youth setting vs senior setting

    14:42 - Big performance boost in 2024

    17:23 - Flashing all Innsbruck quails boulders

    22:22 - Why younger climbers dominate the WC circuit

    25:09 - German national team

    30:04 - German military sponsorship

    34:04 - 2025 season

    36:19 - Finding out if the combined format will be in LA 2028

    39:05 - Non-climbing hobbies + sewing!

    42:23 - Outdoor projects

    43:28 - IG Q: What is the hardest part of being an athlete?

    49:06 - IG Q: Tips on improving arm strength

    50:27 - IG Q: Where can I buy the Germany down jacket?

    51:12 - IG Q: Non-climbing related goal

    52:58 - IG Q: Thoughts on the minimum BMI requirement

    57:29 - Outro and where to find Anna

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    59 min
  • Ep 34: Rodrigo Hanada - From CHUBBY to World Cup Climber?!
    Feb 3 2025

    Rodrigo is a boulder & lead climber from team Brazil. He actually started climbing fairly recently in 2018, but since then has been a 2x south american cup winner and is working his way up the ranks on the world cup circuit! In this episode, we talk about what makes training and climbing in Brazil difficult, how he feels like a “weaker” climber due to starting out as a chubbier kid, and mindset tips he uses while competing.

    Guest links:

    Rodrigo’s Instagram

    Reference links:

    Brazilian Hold Brand - Crux

    Night Moves - Outdoor Brazilian Climbing

    Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

    Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

    Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

    Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

    Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

    Timestamps of discussion topics

    0:00 - Intro

    1:28 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

    2:29 - Starting climbing only 8 years ago!

    7:24 - How to mentally recover from knee injury

    10:38 - The importance of hold and movement exposure

    13:57 - Living in Australia

    16:38 - Competing in Prague with a knee brace

    21:45 - The difficulties of climbing hard in South America

    25:31 - Brazil climber funding

    30:19 - Climbing scene in Brazil

    36:15 - Thoughts on the upcoming 2025 Brazil WC

    39:27 - Mindset and overcoming being a "weaker" climber

    48:43 - Once a fat kid, always a fat kid

    51:47 - Discord Q: Top 3 slab tips

    56:13 - Discord Q: Thoughts on limiting country participation? Does it actually help smaller nations?

    1:02:20 - Discord Q: Outdoor climbing projects in Brazil?

    1:05:19 - S/O to South American climbers and where to find Rodrigo

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    1 h et 8 min
  • Ep 33: Niki & Jake - Routesetting + Hold HOT TAKES
    Jan 20 2025

    Niklas Wiechmann and Jake Mason are routesetters from "Another Setting Podcast" but you may already be familiar with them because Niki was my FIRST ever podcast guest and you are probably familiar with Jake from the Bouldering Bobats. In this episode, we absolutely TRASH US gym hold selection and setting, they give their opinions on worldwide setting styles, comp formats, and moves to LEAVE BEHIND in 2024, and we discuss freelance vs world cup routesetter pay.

    Guest links:

    “Another Setting Podcast”

    Niki’s Youtube

    Jake’s Youtube

    Niki’s Instagram

    Jake’s Instagram

    Reference links:

    The hold that doesn’t need to exist

    Routesetting workshops through Frankenjura Academy

    Dockmasters 2025 - January

    Studiobloc masters 2025 - March

    Quarryman

    Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

    Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

    Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

    Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

    Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

    Timestamps of discussion topics

    0:00 - Intro

    1:33 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

    2:29 - Stretching!

    5:36 - The bromance + getting into setting

    10:23 - Settings trends in each country

    15:10 - TRASHING hold selection in US gyms

    24:54 - Lack of style in world cups

    32:26 - Setting for Brawl on the Wall

    42:28 - Fun experimental comp formats

    48:08 - Niki's setting future + Frankenjura academy

    52:58 - How will setting innovate?

    57:12 - STOP setting these moves and START setting these!

    1:01:41 - World Cup setter dreams or freelancing + pay

    1:09:04 - Another Setting Podcast

    1:11:57 - Discord Q: Why is it rare to find footwork-intensive climbs in gyms?

    1:14:53 - Discord Q: How important is hold selection in order to force a move?

    1:19:27 - Discord Q: What is the "jug ladder" of parkour routes?

    1:23:47 - Words of widsom + Where to find Niki and Jake

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    1 h et 27 min

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