In 1983, one climber was more dominant than any other: Jerry Moffatt. Filled with confidence, he traveled the world not only to quickly repeat the hardest routes, but to put up his own routes - often the hardest in the country. A trip to the US let the world know that he had arrived, but it was a trip to Germany with one of the brightest German stars that really cemented his place as the best. And this wouldn't be the last we hear of Jerry Moffatt.

Check out Revelations by Jerry Moffatt and Niall Grimes

Check out our website for related episodes, resources and more!

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Season Two is generously supported by Rab.

This episode is supported by Tension Climbing. Use code WRITTEN15 at checkout.

This episode is supported by our research partner, NOLS: The National Outdoor Leadership School.

Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.

There’s nobody better than Bill Ramsey to discuss the impact that Alan Watts had on climbing. Not only is he a philosophy professor, but he was born in the same hospital as Alan, just a few hours later. Their fathers climbed together at Smith Rock, their mothers shared a recovery room, and together they found a love of climbing that helped bring Smith Rock into the future.

We discuss:

• Bill and Alan’s early climbing.
• What contributed to changing ethics at Smith Rock.
• What Alan saw in Smith Rock that Bill didn’t.
• Alan’s forward thinking and selflessness.
• What Alan Watts means to climbing history.

Check out our website for related episodes, resources and more!

Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE and get bonus episodes.

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Season Two is generously supported by Rab.

This episode is supported by Tension Climbing. Use code WRITTEN15 at checkout.

This episode is supported by our research partner, NOLS: The National Outdoor Leadership School.

Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.

In early 1983, in a small backwater area in Oregon with less than stellar rock, Smith Rock, sport climbing history was quietly being made. Alan Watts had all but climbed out the cracks in the area and had turned his attention to the blank faces and lasercut aretes. He would have to bend the rules to get it done, but with nobody around to tell him otherwise, he got to work. The result would be not only the climb recognized as the first sport climb in the country, Watt’s Tots, but a short, steep, gymnastic arete that would set off a chain reaction that changed American – and world – climbing culture forever.

Check out our website for resources and more!

Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE and get bonus episodes.

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Season Two is generously supported by Rab.

This episode is supported by Tension Climbing. Use code WRITTEN15 at checkout.

This episode is supported by our research partner, NOLS: The National Outdoor Leadership School.

Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.

Kris chats with French legend David Chambre, the author of one of the best and most beautiful reference books out there for 90’s climbing history, The 9th Grade. David’s previous book, co-written with Jibe Tribout, The 8th Grade, is a treasure trove of French climbing history of the late 1970’s and early to mid 1980’s. They discuss the influence of Patrick Edlinger on both French and world climbing history.

Discussed in the episode:

• The difference between the two Patricks.
• The rivalry between the Parisians and Edlinger.
• Edlinger’s influence on climbing culture.
• The effect of fame on Edlinger.
• Tribout’s ability to provoke.
• French climbing history.

Check out more here!

Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE.

Get David's Book The 9th Grade

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Season Two is generously supported by Rab.

This episode is supported by Tension Climbing. Use code WRITTEN15 at checkout.

Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.

Kris sits down in Wyoming with two absolute legends from the 80’s, Jibé Tribout and Arnould T’Kint, to talk about Patrick Edlinger and the birth of sport climbing as we know it.

Belgian climbing legend Arnould T’Kint did the third 8a in the world, and the first outside of the US, as well as reportedly being the first to onsight 8a.

Jibé Tribout is a french and world climbing legend who, through the 80’s and 90’s, was always at the leading edge of difficulty, from 13a to 14c.

They discuss:

• Pushing grades in the 80's.
• The origins of free-climbing as a pursuit.
• The rivalry between Tribout and Patrick Edlinger.
• The scene at Buoux and Verdon in the 80's.
• The benefits of friendly competition at the crag.
• The first actual comps.
• Tribout playing the villain.

Check out more here!

Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE.

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Season Two is generously supported by Rab.

Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.

There is no icon of 1980's climbing with the starpower of Patrick Edlinger. Known as Le Blonde, it's estimated that by the mid 1990's, Edlinger was responsible for inspiring 80% of France's climbers to join the sport. Not only was he one of the first to embrace sport climbing, he defined the style and movement of the era.

But the life of the rock star is often one of tragedy. The higher the rise, the further the fall. How would Edlinger deal with being at the top of the mountain?

Check out more here!

Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE.

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Season Two is generously supported by Rab.

This episode is supported by Tension Climbing. Use code WRITTEN15 at checkout.

Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.

As the end of the 1970’s neared, climbers, more and more, the world over, were wondering the same thing. “How hard can we climb?

In this setup episode we look at the factors that coalesced right there at the end of the 70's and beginning of the 80's to help pave the way for what we now call sport climbing.

New equipment, new tactics, and most important, ushered in by a German giant named Kurt Albert, were new rules.

Check out more here!

Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE.

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Season Two is generously supported by Rab.

This episode is supported by Tension Climbing.

Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.

Climbing, in the 1990’s, as you’ve already heard, was all punk rock and new wave, rising standards and superstar climbers pushing each other forward through friendly – and not so friendly – rivalries. And it was huge.

But all of that bravado started somewhere. It wasn’t some Big Bang event. Instead, January 1st, 1990 was a product of the previous decade. A continuation of the countercultural need to rail against the conservatism, materialism and, well, traditionalism of the cultural norm. What had been counterculture in the 60s and 70s had become, in fact, climbing culture, and there was a new class of climbers unwilling to be subservient to what came before. They wanted something entirely new. Entirely theirs. Something that bucked against the tired old ways their fathers and mothers and grandparents had climbed.

They were louder. They were stronger. They were better. By miles. And they knew it.

Season 2, The 1980's, coming soon.